Learning how to stick weld is a fundamental skill for many metal projects. This guide explains the SMAW process and gives you practical tips to start strong.
Stick welding, officially called Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), is a versatile and robust method. It uses an electrode, or “stick,” that melts to join metals. The flux coating on the electrode creates a gas shield, protecting the weld from air. It’s great for outdoor work, thicker materials, and even dirty or rusty metal. Let’s get you set up.
How to Stick Weld
Before you strike an arc, you need the right gear and setup. Safety is your first priority every single time.
Essential Safety Gear
Never skip your personal protective equipment (PPE). A single spark can cause serious injury.
- Welding Helmet: An auto-darkening lens is a worthwhile investment for beginners.
- Fire-Resistant Jacket & Gloves: Heavy leather protects from heat and spatter.
- Safety Glasses: Wear them under your helmet for grinding and chipping.
- Boots & Pants: Sturdy, leather boots and pants without cuffs to catch sparks.
- Ventilation: Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid fume inhalation.
Gathering Your Equipment
You don’t need a ton of fancy tools to begin. A basic AC or DC welding machine is perfect for starters. You’ll also need:
- Electrode holder (stinger) and ground clamp.
- A sturdy welding table or surface.
- Wire brush and chipping hammer for cleaning slag.
- Your chosen electrodes (more on that next).
Choosing the Right Electrode
Electrodes are classified by a numbering system, like E6013 or E7018. The numbers tell you about tensile strength, position, and flux type. For beginners, two are highly recommended:
- E6013: An easy-to-use all-rounder. It strikes easily, runs smoothly, and produces little slag. Great for practice on clean, thin to medium steel.
- E7018: A low-hydrogen, strong electrode. It produces very clean, high-strength welds but can be trickier to start. It must be kept dry.
Start with 1/8-inch (3.2mm) diameter E6013 rods on mild steel. It’s the most forgiving path to learn.
Machine Settings and Polarity
Set your amperage based on the electrode and metal thickness. Your electrode box will have a suggested range. For a 1/8″ E6013 on 1/4″ steel, start near 110-125 amps. You can adjust from their.
Polarity matters. DCEN (Direct Current Electrode Negative) gives less penetration, good for thin metal. DCEP (Direct Current Electrode Positive) offers deeper penetration. AC is common for basic home machines. Consult your welder’s manual.
Step-by-Step: Running Your First Bead
- Prepare the Metal: Clean your practice piece with a grinder or wire brush. Remove rust, paint, and oil for a clean weld.
- Secure the Workpiece: Clamp your metal to the table. Attach the ground clamp directly to it or the table for a good electrical connection.
- Insert the Electrode: Insert a rod into the holder (stinger) at a 90-degree angle. A common mistake is not securing it tightly.
- Position and Angle: Hold the stinger so the electrode is angled about 15-20 degrees back in the direction you’re welding (drag angle). Keep a consistent 1/8-inch gap from the metal.
- Strike the Arc: Like striking a match, quickly tap the electrode on the metal and lift slightly. If it sticks, twist it free. Practice until you get a consistent sizzle sound.
- Establish the Weld Pool: Once the arc is lit, hold it steady for a moment to create a molten puddle. You’ll see the edges melt.
- Move Steadily: Slowly drag the electrode along the joint, maintaining your arc length and angle. Watch the puddle, not the bright arc.
- Weave Slightly (Optional): For wider beads, use a tiny side-to-side motion. Keep it simple at first.
- Break the Arc: To stop, quickly flick the electrode back over the weld or away from the metal.
- Clean the Slag: Let it cool for a second, then use your chipping hammer and wire brush to remove the slag coating. Inspect your bead!
Reading Your Weld Bead
The slag tells a story. A good weld bead will be relatively straight and uniform. The slag should peel off easily. Here’s what to look for:
- Bead is Too High and Narrow: You’re moving to fast. Slow down and let the puddle spread.
- Bead is Flat and Wide: You’re moving to slow or your amperage is too high.
- Excessive Spatter: Amperage might be to high, arc length too long, or polarity wrong.
- Porosity (Tiny Holes): Metal wasn’t clean, arc length was to long, or the rod was moist.
- Undercut (Groove along edges): Amperage too high, angle to steep, or moving to slow.
Practical Tips for Common Situations
Stick welding isn’t just for flat surfaces. Here’s how to handle different challenges.
Welding Different Positions
- Flat (1G/1F): The easiest. Drag the electrode at a steady pace.
- Horizontal (2G/2F): Use a slight uphill angle to fight gravity. A small weave can help.
- Vertical (3G/3F): Weld upward for strength. Use a triangle or “Z” weave, pausing at the sides to let the puddle catch up.
- Overhead (4G/4F): Requires lower amperage. Keep a very short arc and move consistently to avoid drooping metal.
Dealing with Rusty or Dirty Metal
One of SMAW’s big advantages is it handles imperfect metal. Use a E6010 or E6011 rod. They have a digging arc that cuts through contamination. You still should clean off the worst of it for the best results, though.
Avoiding and Fixing a Stuck Electrode
It happens to everyone. If the rod sticks, don’t panic. Simply twist the electrode holder to break it free. If that fails, release the rod from the holder and tap it loose with a hammer. Check your amperage—it might be to low—and practice your striking technique.
Maintenance and Storage
Take care of your rods, especially low-hydrogen types like E7018. Keep them in a sealed, dry container. Moisture ruins the flux coating, leading to porous, weak welds. You can redry them in a rod oven if they get damp. Also, regularly check your cables and connections for wear.
FAQ: Stick Welding (SMAW) Questions
What does SMAW stand for?
SMAW stands for Shielded Metal Arc Welding. It’s the technical name for stick welding.
Can I stick weld aluminum?
It is possible but very difficult and not recommended for beginners. Special rods and techniques are needed. MIG or TIG are better for aluminum.
Why is my weld bead so bumpy?
An unsteady hand or inconsistent travel speed causes a bumpy bead. Try bracing your arms on the table and focus on a smooth, steady motion.
How thin of metal can I stick weld?
You can weld metal as thin as 16-gauge with a small (1/16″) electrode and careful amperage control. However, for thin sheet metal, other processes are often easier.
What’s the difference between AC and DC welding?
AC (Alternating Current) changes direction. DC (Direct Current) flows one way. DC typically gives a smoother, more stable arc. Many machines offer both.
How do I prevent welding holes in thin metal?
Use the lowest amperage that maintains an arc, a small-diameter rod, and move quickly. Practice on scrap pieces of the same thickness first to dial in your settings.
Stick welding is a skill built with practice. Start with the basics: get your safety gear, set your machine for a common rod like E6013, and run beads on scrap metal. Focus on a consistent arc length and travel speed. Don’t worry about pretty welds at first. Just focus on controlling the puddle. With patience, you’ll soon be making strong, reliable welds for all sorts of projects.